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This tutorial provides comprehensive instructions for creating Freestanding Lace (FSL) embroidery designs using Embird Studio NEXT. It covers the use of the Mesh tool for base fills (including FSL Grids) and the Outline tool for satin stitch borders utilizing Overlock and Satin modes. The guide also details techniques for creating design openings and generating interior satin stitch fills, essential for professional FSL digitizing.
Mastering FSL embroidery involves two primary components: 1. the digital design process (digitizing) and 2. the physical embroidery process. The methods used for physical realization directly influence how the design must be digitized.
This tutorial focuses on the digitizing aspect, which is heavily reliant on specific software tools.
FSL designs are embroidered directly onto a water-soluble stabilizer. Because there is no fabric backing, the stitches in the background fill must be structured to support one another. The resulting fill is loose, creating a characteristic lace appearance. These designs typically require a satin stitch border to maintain the structural integrity of the lace.
Studio NEXT provides specialized tools for creating both loose fills and satin stitch borders. This tutorial demonstrates a fundamental workflow; however, other tools and settings within Studio NEXT may be used to achieve various fill textures and border styles.
Before configuring fill and border options, an initial object must be digitized to define the overall shape of the FSL design. This primary object provides the structural fill that holds the design together.
The Mesh tool is utilized to create various loose fills. Not all mesh fills are appropriate for FSL; to ensure stability, the base fill must form an intertwined net or grid. For designs requiring inner decorative lines, the parent mesh fill should be configured for single-layer stitching to simplify conversion and editing.
In this example, we use the Mesh tool to digitize the overall shape in vector form. The border contours will be derived from this shape later, eliminating the need to digitize them separately.
While any shape can be digitized for FSL, we will begin with a simple circular Mesh object created using basic geometric shapes.
Circle defined by vector curves and nodes
Once digitized, select the object in the Work Area and create two duplicates. Arrange the copies as shown below.
Overlapping circles
Merged circles
Select all three circles and navigate to Main Menu > Build > Shaping > Union to weld them into a single shape. This new shape will appear at the end of the list in the Object Inspector. The original circles remain unchanged; one will be used to create a hole, while the others can be deleted.
Object list in the Object Inspector Panel
In the Object Inspector, move the remaining circle so it follows the welded shape. Resize and center it within the welded area.
Use Main Menu > Convert > Fill, Mesh & Sfumato > To Opening to convert this circle into a hole (opening) within the parent mesh. Note that for proper rendering, the opening object must immediately follow the parent fill object in the Inspector list.
Inner circle scaled and positioned
Inner circle converted into a design opening
Although the overall shape is defined, stitches must still be generated. The Mesh tool provides several fill categories. While "Stippling" is the default, it is unsuitable for FSL as the paths do not intertwine. For FSL, the most effective fills are those that create a net or grid of single-run paths that cross one another.
The following examples demonstrate Net - FSL Grid and Net - Shapes fills. Both sub-categories belong to the Net mesh category and are configured with the single-layer option enabled.
You may adjust mesh parameters such as gap (spacing), and minimum/maximum stitch length to suit your project requirements.
FSL Grid (Single Layer)
Net - Shapes (Single Layer)
Vector contours for the border can be generated by converting the Mesh object and its opening into Outline Objects.
Select the Mesh object and navigate to Main Menu > Convert > Fill, Mesh & Sfumato > Create Outlines. This creates new outline objects for the outer contour and the opening while preserving the original mesh.
Studio NEXT offers several ways to create satin borders: 1. Column objects, 2. Autocolumn mode, 3. Satin mode for outlines, and 4. Overlock mode for outlines. We will utilize Overlock mode for its efficiency in distributing samples evenly along a contour. These samples are optimized for low-density stitching without requiring an underlay.
Select the newly created outline objects, open the Parameters window, and set the mode to Overlock. Select an appropriate sample (such as sample #26) and generate the stitches.
Mesh converted to vector outlines
Overlock mode (Sample #26)
Overlock outlines create the zig-zag borders necessary for design stability. You can refine these by adjusting stitch spacing (density), width, and cell length.
Overlock border on FSL Grid fill
Overlock border on Net fill
While FSL designs are typically monochromatic, this tutorial uses separate colors for clarity. For continuous production, ensure the start and end points of the fill are positioned to allow a hidden connection beneath the border.
Interior fill lines can also be rendered as satin stitches. To automate this, we can convert single-run paths within a net fill into satin paths.
Select the mesh object and navigate to Main Menu > Convert > Fill, Mesh & Sfumato > Create Separate Outline Elements from Mesh. This process generates individual outline and connection objects from the fill's interior paths.
Select these new objects and open the Parameters window. In the Outlines tab, set the mode to Satin. Adjust spacing and width, then generate stitches.
Mesh fill (Net - Shapes)
Mesh fill converted to Satin mode
Overlock outlines layered on satin paths
Candlewick 2 decorative samples applied to mesh paths
Converted paths can also utilize Sample mode. The example above features paths using a single stitch sample combined with hand-picked "Candlewick 2" decorative samples.
Digitizing for Freestanding Lace requires a higher degree of technical precision than standard embroidery. Below are common issues encountered during the digitizing or sewing process and their respective solutions.
If the embroidery loses its structure once the stabilizer is removed, the stitches are likely not sufficiently interconnected. Check the FSL Grid or Net fill parameters to ensure the paths overlap and touch the Satin border. Every element in an FSL design must be anchored to another element. If an object is isolated, it will fall away during the wash-out process.
Gaps often occur due to the pull effect of the thread during embroidery. To prevent this, ensure that the Mesh fill extends slightly into the center of the Satin or Overlock border. In Studio NEXT, you can use the Pull Compensation setting in the Parameters window to slightly overlap the fill and border, compensating for the natural shrinkage of the stitches.
If the water-soluble stabilizer tears (perforates) before the design is finished, the stitch density may be too high, or the needle may be too large. Try reducing the density of the Mesh Net or using two layers of stabilizer. Ensure the stabilizer is drum-tight in the hoop to prevent "flagging", which can lead to bird-nesting and needle breaks.
Because FSL lacks a fabric foundation, thread tension is critical. If stitches appear loose, ensure the machine's bobbin and top tension are balanced specifically for lace. In the software, avoid using excessively long Satin stitches (over 7-9 mm), as these are prone to snagging and lack the structural rigidity needed for freestanding lace.
Note: Always perform a test sew-out on a small portion of the design to verify that the connections and density are appropriate for your specific thread and stabilizer combination.